Written by Nick Beek & Sophia BettizaNear Grindavik volcano
Normally, the Christmas illuminations around Iceland’s capital Reykjavík would attract a lot of attention.
A lot of effort goes into the festival illuminations.
But in December, everything was overshadowed by an intense light and sound show along the Reykjanes peninsula.
“It’s a bit stressful,” says Andrzej, 63, with an understatement common to many people we meet.
The former fisherman was one of 4,000 Grindavik residents evacuated last month over fears of a volcanic eruption.
“It’s a wonderful, wonderful town, but we’re always very worried that Grindavik will disappear from the map.”
Iceland has been experiencing increased seismic activity around its southwest coast and has been preparing for weeks of volcanic activity.
A police officer near the volcano told the BBC on Wednesday morning.
She said no one is currently allowed near the volcano, only response personnel accompanied by scientists and police.
It’s too dangerous and the terrain is unpredictable.
“Right now, the priority for the police is to try to save the town of Grindavik, which could be damaged by the lava. We are planning how to do that,” the officer said.
“We’ll probably go back to people’s homes to pick up their most important belongings. Probably not today, because it’s too dangerous, but probably tomorrow.”
“People who are evacuated will almost certainly not be able to return home in time for Christmas,” she said.
On Wednesday, we met Andrzej from Poland during a counseling session at a center run by local authorities and the Red Cross.
“They’re really great here,” he said. “I spoke to a social worker today and she was very helpful.”
Despite the emotional toll he has experienced four volcanic eruptions here, he says he has no intention of abandoning his town.
“No, I’m not afraid to go back. If it starts shaking again, I’ll just leave.”
Inside the center, boys and girls play in a soft area. There are also Legos, cute dinosaurs, and crayons.
Cake, fruit salad and coffee await parents as they arrive to plan the next few turbulent weeks of their lives.
Here we meet Eggert Solberg Jonsson, a father of three children.
“I think a lot of people were scared to see the images and videos, but the children in Grindavik are used to it.”
Eggert works as a staff member in the evacuated area and says her first priority is to care for the 500 children between the ages of 6 and 16 attending elementary schools.
“We live in a place where there’s lava all over the place. That’s the reality of living in Iceland. Every town has a threat. Our threat is this volcano.”
Eggert’s wife is a school teacher. In the five weeks since they were evacuated, they have been searching for alternative accommodation with their two sons, aged five and 11, and their eight-year-old daughter.
“Luckily, some friends agreed to let me stay until spring, so I’ll have a few more months,” he explains.
“Not everyone is as lucky as we are, but the safety net here is strong.”
Eggert said the children are doing incredibly well under these circumstances, but she thinks it will be a shame to have them away from home this Christmas.
“But volcanoes are part of their lives. They need to go home and so do we. We hope they can go home as soon as possible.”
“This is a unique place and continues to be a great place to live.”
Attracting tourists
The new reality facing the 4,000 evacuees stands in stark contrast to the experience of many tourists who cannot believe their good fortune.
At the edge of the exclusion zone, about a 40-minute drive away, emergency services are responding to visitors trying to stop on the side of a motorcycle road to photograph the volcano.
Mr. Guorn, who works for the Rio Cal authorities, was trying to take care of the arrivals.
“We are fully prepared. Today everyone went to work and continued their normal lives. We know how to deal with these situations. Here are photos and videos The only people taking pictures are tourists.”
American friends George and Matt came from Chicago with their two young children. They posed for selfies with bright orange lava in the background.
“That’s amazing! It’s a force of nature!”
George’s daughter said she was so hypnotized by the flames that she could barely look away.
George said: “When you’re in America, it’s like watching a hurricane on TV…you can’t look away. But here you can actually see it happening. I’ll never forget it. I guess so.”
The roar of the volcano can be heard even from a distance. And the smell of smoke lingers in the cold air.